Cut and Sew Neck Bands

Finished cut and sew neck band
  • After garment pieces are made without neck shaping, remove onto waste yarn (WY)
  • Steam or block pieces so they lay flat
    Ready to block

    Pieces blocked
  • Decide on neck opening width and depth for the front and back; allow 1 inch (+ or -) on each side for the band; i.e. if you want an 8 inch opening, mark a 10 inch wide opening, etc.
  • Using a template or something like a plate, draw around it with a skinny marker (you will cut this mark off, so it does not matter if it is dark or permanent); make sure to leave equal number of stitches on each side of front and back shoulders

    Ready to draw around template
  • Using a serger to sew the seam, cut just on the outside of the marked line (on the garment side) so you cut that marked line off as you cut out the neckline; I use a 1.5 differential feed setting

    Neckline serged
  • If you do not want to use a serger, use a sewing machine and sew 1 row small zig zag stitch or 2 rows of straight stitching close together just outside the drawn line on the garment side; cut close to stitching without cutting your stitched line
  • If you want to make a band for more than one piece at a time (as long as it still fits on the machine), join one shoulder right sides together off the WY
  • Hold your garment neckline up to the needles to judge how many needles wide your band needs to be; Do not stretch it or gather it; set garment aside
  • Pull needles out and cast on with waste yarn; knit a few rows and knit 1 row ravel cord
  • Knit 2 rows at main tension (MT) minus 3 numbers tighter on tension dial
  • Knit 2 rows at MT -2 numbers tighter
  • Knit 2 rows at MT-1 number tighter
  • Knit 2 rows at MT
  • If you prefer a narrower or wider band, make # of rows accordingly, grading the tension
  • Knit several rows of WY and remove from machine

    First side of neck band
  • Carriage on left COL (if right handed)
  • Rehang your neck edge on those same needles with the WRONG (purl) side facing you; catch the needles right under your serger/sewing machine stitching

    Hang on machine purl side facing
  • Push that garment piece behind latches against bed
  • Rehang the band piece you made, WRONG (purl) side facing you off stitches of WY you last knit (not the WY/ravel side) This puts the purl side of garment facing the knit side of the band.
  • Push band behind latches against the garment
  • Pull all needles clear out and close the latches (helps knit off without catching the sewn edge)
  • COL
  • Knit 1 row at MT
  • Pull all the needles out again and close latches (extra insurance you won’t catch the sewing edge)
  • K 1 row at MT
  • K 2 rows at MT -1 number on tension dial
  • K 2 rows at MT-2
  • K 2 rows at MT-3

    Second side of band knit
  • Join the band pieces and enclose the cut & sew edge by picking up the stitches on the band edge with the WY/ravel cord and hanging on the needles, doubling the stitches on the needles

    Hanging stitches off waste yarn/ravel cord
  • Push knitting against bed and pull all needles clear out
  • Remove WY and ravel cord
  • Knit 1 row left to right with largest possible tension
  • Loop through loop bind off from left to right; remove from machine; remove WY
  • The band looks as good inside as outside

You may copy, print and use any of the info on my blog. Please do not copy and repost anywhere on the internet without contacting me to get my permission. Thank you, Ann

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