Herringbone Long Jacket

Front view
Back View
Inside view of the facing and short floats
  • Machine: Standard
  • Yarn: 2 high contrast colors of Tamm 3 ply
  • Tension: 10
  • Gauge: Sts 7.5 and Rows 8.5 per inch
  • Sizes: S/M, L, XL
  • Finished garment: 44”, (48”, 53”) bust
  • *Stitch pattern at bottom

BACK:

  • Cast On as follows: Dark yarn; Tension 6; Pull 160, (176, 192) N’s clear out; push every other N back to B position; Set carriage to slip to the left; K 1 R; hang comb and weights; remove carriage setting
  • RC 000; K 13 R; COR; (makes a lightweight facing that will be hemmed later)
  • RC 000; Tension 10; cut dark yarn; change to light yarn
  • Set pattern for electronic machine or a punch card; KCII; go by turn mark; K 1R
  • Add dark yarn for fair isle and set carriage to do fair isle
  • K 194 R (all sizes)
  • Remove 8 sts; K 1 R; remove 8 sts on other side; K 1 R (all sizes)
  • Size S/M: Dec 1 st at each end of every row 2 times; then every 2nd row 12 times
  • Size L: Dec 1 st at each end of every row 6 times; then every 2nd row 10 times
  • Size XL: Dec1 st at each end of every row 18 times; then every 2nd row 4 times
  • K 46, (50, 56R) straight
  • Carriage to hold; put all N’s opposite carriage into hold except for 34, (34, 40) sts by carriage
  • Remove those onto WY
  • Put sts on opposite shoulder into work and remove onto WY
  • Bind off remaining center sts

FRONTS:

  • Cast On as follows: Dark yarn; Tension 6; Pull 78, (86, 96) N’s clear out; push every other N back to B position; Set carriage to slip to the left; K 1 R; hang comb and weights; remove carriage setting
  • RC 000; K 13 R; COR
  • RC 000; Tension 10; cut dark yarn; change to light yarn
  • Set pattern for electronic machine or a punch card; KCII; go by turn mark; K 1R
  • Add dark yarn for fair isle and set carriage to do fair isle
  • K 194 R; 195 R second front
  • Remove 8 sts; K 1 R (all sizes)
  • Decreasing is done on armhole and center front at same time with instructions for each
  • Armhole decreases:
  • Size S/M: Dec 1 st at armhole end of every R 2 times; then every 2nd R 12 times; K straight 46R
  • Size L: Dec 1 st at arm end of every row 6 times; then every 2nd row 10 times; K straight 50R
  • Size XL: Dec1 st at arm end every row 18 times; then every 2nd row 4 times; K straight 56R
  • Center decreases:
  • Size S/M: Dec 1 st at center end on 1st R and every other R 35 more times
  • Size L: Dec 1 st at center end on 1st R and every other R 32 more times; then every R 8 times; Size XL: Dec 1 st at center end on 1st R and every 3rd R another 25 times
  • For size S/M RC 266; (For L and XL; K straight to RC 272; RC 278)
  • Remove last 34, (34, 40) sts onto WY
  • Reverse shaping on the second front

SLEEVES:

  • Cast On as follows: Dark yarn; Tension 6; Pull 76, (76, 82) N’s clear out; push every other N back to B position; Set carriage to slip to the left; K 1 R; hang comb and weights; remove carriage setting
  • RC 000; K 13 R; COR
  • RC 000; Tension 10; cut dark yarn; change to light yarn
  • Set pattern for electronic machine or a punch card; KCII; go by turn mark; K 1R
  • Add dark yarn for fair isle and set carriage to do fair isle
  • K 18R straight (all sizes)
  • Size S/M: Increase 1 st at each end of every 5th row 22 times
  • Size L: Increase 1 st at each end of every 4th row 20 times; then every 5th row 6 times
  • Size XL: Increase 1 st at each end of every 3rd row 2 times; then every 4th row 26 times
  • K 1 R; Remove 8 sts; K 1 R; remove 8 sts on other side (all sizes)
  • Size S/M: Decrease every 2nd row 14 times; then 1 st at each end of every row 28 times
  • Size L: Decrease every 2nd row 14 times; then 1 st at each end of every row 32 times
  • Size XL: Decrease 1 st at each end of every 2nd row 16 times; then every row 34 times
  • Bind off 20, (20, 22) sts

BAND: Make FNR band as follows or make your favorite band and attach

  • To determine the length in inches to knit band; after attaching shoulders, measure the fronts and around the back neck
  • Rack H5; Tension 5 Cast on FNR over 5 X 5 R on the MB and 6L X 5 R on the ribber (edge N’s on the ribber)
  • Tension: 0/0; Zig Zag Row; comb and weights
  • Move second N in from the right end on the ribber up to the MB (N #4R -gives a nicer edge)
  • Push that 1 ribber N out of work
  • Set carriage to circular knit; K 2 R; remove settings
  • RC 000; Tension 5/5
  • K rows needed for length of 2 fronts and around back neck; COR
  • Remove settings; K 1 plain R
  • Move all rib sts up to MB
  • End COL; tension as loose as possible; K 1 R
  • Loop through a loop bind off

MAKE UP:

  • Block all pieces
  • Hang one back shoulder N’s with knit side facing you; push behind latches
  • Hang one front shoulder onto same N’s into hooks with purl side facing you
  • With a ruler push all needle butts back and pop front through the back stitches
  • Tension 10 plus; K 1 R; loop through a loop bind off
  • Repeat with second shoulder
  • Mattress st band on fronts and back neck
  • Mattress st sleeves in
  • Mattress st sides and under sleeves
  • Turn hem up so that ¼ inch of fair isle shows on purl side; pin, adjusting with cast on yarn; steam in place; hand tack down with yarn
  • Weave in all ends

*Stitch design: 10 rows and 12 stitches

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Please do not copy and repost anywhere on the internet without contacting me to get my permission.  Please do not sell this pattern as your own.  Thank you, Ann